Evia is the second largest Greek Island after Crete.  It is 110 miles long and between 31 and 4.7 miles wide.  It is not a usual tourist destination other than by the Greeks themselves, so it was much quieter than the Islands south of Athens.  Much more up our street. 

The Euripus Strait that separates it from the Greek mainland at its narrowest is just 130ft at Chalkida where the bridge is and only opens at night to let us Yachts through. 

We left Porto Raft (29^th July 2019) and made our way to Panagia which was a very small village.  We anchored for one night on one side of the bay and the following day with the change of wind direction moved to the other side.  We anchored in the deepest water we have so far which was 14m. 

Our next port of call was Eretria.  We pulled up the anchor and along with it was a drum whether it was something to do with fishing or a cable drum we didn’t know but it was a b*****r to get off. 

Eretria

Eretria is where the Greeks go on holiday.  We ended up spending five nights here as our next stop would be Chalkida where we needed to go though the  bridge.  The bridge wasn’t open on the first Friday of every month and we arrived on Wednesday 31^st July and didn’t want to rush off.  Plus the weekends incurred a premium of 75% to go through the bridge so hence why we stayed for so long. 

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There are Greek ruins and an archelogical museum which we visited. 

We were planning on leaving a day earlier than we did to get up to Chalkida but in the end we were settled so stayed another night in Eretria.  Well with what occurred that last night we were so glad we stayed.  At about 9.30pm we noticed that there were small boats starting to arrive and hover about.  Now this normally means one thing, FIREWORKS!!!  This display was different,there was a small wooden boat left in the middle of the harbour, a flare was thrown into it and this set off fireworks that were in the boat.  The boats who had come to watch the display also had flares which they held in the air.  The ferry not to be left out also had a flare and it spun round 360 degrees twice with its horn blaring.  It was quite a spectacle.

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Chalkida

The next morning we left for Chalkida.  There are two bridges that connect Chalkida to the mainland.  One a suspension bridge which is 45m above the sea level, so plenty of room to go underneath it.  The other is a sliding bridge and as I mentioned only opens once a day and always at night.  We had to visit the Port Authority Office to pay to go through the bridge.  We were told we couldn’t pay until we had been to the Port Police for them to check our papers.  So off we went.  They looked at our papers only to check we’d paid our cruising tax, which we had.  We were then told we should go back to the Port Office to pay but we needed to come back after 4 o’clock and see the Port Police to give us instructions and check all our papers.  Back to the Port Office where we were asked did the  Port Police check your papers we said yes and so he processed our payment!  At 4 o’clock off we went back to the Port Police who checked all our papers and were given instructions that we must be on our boat at 9.30pm with the radio on and to wait to be told when we could transit through the bridge.  It could be anytime from 10.00pm to 2.00am when we could go through.  There is an electronic sign on the bridge which tells people when the bridge is closing that day so we knew it would be after midnight, we went through at 12.45am watched by crowds of people lined along the bridge.

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There are very strong tidal currents that reverse direction every six hours and you can see the water whirling round and round.  We moored up on the wall on the other side of the bridge.  Chalkida is the capital of Evia and so busy.  There are lots of jellyfish here so not the place for swimming.  We stayed a couple of nights here to stock up before leaving for Theologos on the mainland. 

Theologos

Theologos was a small town with a few bars.  Here we saw the largest power boat trimaran which is quite a sight.

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After a short stay overnight at a small bay near to the tip of Evia we headed to the Bay of Velos as we were expecting some very strong winds so we were looking for shelter. 

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Bay of Velos

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August  2019

Itea and Delphi

We left Trizonia Island and our Mahe Mates, Copy Cat and headed to Itea.  It was forecast to be quite breezy and it was gusting up to 27 knots.  We were on a deadline as I was flying back to the UK on 19^th July so had to get a bit of a move on.  The wind was due to increase as the day went on so we left first thing before the worst of it.  We moored up on the harbour wall at one o’clock and the wind steadily increased. 

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Our reason for heading to Itea was to visit Delphi, the site of the Temple of Apollo and home to the Oracle.  Delphi was considered to be the centre of the world and where the Priestess Oracle received messages from the God Apollo and gave advice.  Someone, can’t remember who, recommended that we get there early and before the crowds.  So unbelievably there we were waiting at the bus stop at 7am, yes 7 am!  The ride took us up into the mountains and the views were quite spectacular. 

Corinth Canal

Our next destination was to the Corinth Canal.  It was a day sail of eight and a half hours.  We arrived in the pouring rain and a cool 25degrees.  We moored up in the Corinth Harbour for the night.  It rained constantly, at times torrential, that we never ventured off the boat here. 

The following day (Tuesday 17^th July 2019) we radioed up the Canal whilst we were still in the harbour to ask them what time we can transit through.  We were told to head to the Canal straight away and radio when close by which we did to be told to wait within a certain area.  Ian drifted out of that area! We then got a call on the radio telling us to get back in the designated area where we waited nearly an hour.  There was only one other boat waiting to go through and the only advantage of milling about for an hour was that we were the first to be called to go through, so got an interrupted view.

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The Corinth Canal connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf on the Aegean Sea.  The canal cuts approx. 185nm of the journey.  It is 4miles long, just 70ft wide and the surrounding walls are 170 feet high, so boats can only travel in one direction at a time.  With hindsight, a wonderful thing, we should have checked the AIS (Automatic Identification System – tracking system on boats) to see if there was anyone coming through from the East.  We would have then known that we would have to wait for them to exit on the west side before we could enter. 

Signs show a speed limit for transiting the Canal, however, once inside we were told basically to “get a move on”.  It took just 40 minutes from one end to the other and cost a £140 for the privilege.  Apparently mile for mile it is the most expensive canal in the world but it was worth it for the experience. 

Once through the Canal we headed to the small island of Salamina which is about 12 miles from Pireaus, (main port for Athens – where all the ferries depart and there are a lot of them).  There was nothing much onshore by the anchorage other than two bars and of course a church.  It was very quiet here and we could see lots of ships anchored by Piraeus.

We spent a couple of nights anchored at Salamina and then it was time to get me to the mainland for my flight. We set off to one of the marinas in Pireaus where Ian pulled up alongside, I stepped off and off he went back up to Korfos, near to the Cornith Canal to meet up with Copy Cat and hide from the Meltemi (strong wind) that was forecast.  It was hot in Greece and I was quite looking forward to some cooler weather in the UK, well that didn’t happen the weather slipped into my suitcase and a heatwave ensued whilst I was back in the UK.

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It’s always a dilemia knowing where to be dropped off and picked up, without booking into a marina.  The choice for my pickup was made and it was Porto Rafti which is to the East of Athens Airport and just a 20 minute taxi ride.  I confused the taxi driver( i spoke no Greek and he spoke no English) by being asked to be dropped off on the beach where my carriage awaited, the dinghy!  Our next trip would be up the Evia Channel and onto the Sporades Islands.

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July 2019