We were just four hours from Granada up in the mountains so decided to make a visit in early November.  We looked at various ways of getting there and the bus was the most direct route.  Trains go via Madrid so take twice as long.

The bus left Cartagena and then went on to Murcia before heading up to Granada.  The journey was four hours long on a nice comfy coach.  The hotel was about a 30 minute walk from the bus station so off we went and eventually found it down a small side street.

We dropped our bags and went for a walk around.  We first visited the “Palace of Dar al Horra” which was a moorish palace and the residence of the Sultana Aixa.

Palace of Dar al Horra

Palace of Dar al Horra

Granada

The weather in Granada was not unsurprisingly colder than it was in Cartagena.  In the evening and early morning (fairly early anyway) it was below 10 degrees so felt quite wintery but then we were higher up, being not far from the Sierra Nevada.  The views of the mountains were amazing.

View of the Sierra Nevada

Granada

Granada

Granada

Granada is home to the Alhambra which is a palace and fortress complex of the Moorish monarchs of Granada and was built in the main between 1238 and 1358, in the reigns of Ibn al-Aḥmar, founder of the Naṣrid dynasty.  The Nasrid Palace is quite spectacular and the engravings in the plaster work is so intricate.

Plasterwork at Nasrid Palace

Court of the Myrtles, Nasrid Palace, Granada

Plasterwork at Nasrid Palace, Granada

Nasrid Palace, Granada

Nasrid Palace, Granada

Nasrid Palace, Granada

Stained glass ceiling at Nasrid Palace, Granada

The Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions) is a court 35 metres long and 20 metres wide and in the centre of the court is the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the Lions), an alabaster basin supported by the figures of 12 white marble lions, which are emblems of strength and courage.

Court of the Lions

Court of the Lions

The Partal of the Alhambra includes the Tower of the Ladies and the Gardens.

The Partal of the Alhambra includes the Tower of the Ladies and the Gardens

The Partal of the Alhambra includes the Tower of the Ladies and the Gardens

The Generalife was the summer palace and gardens of the Nasrid dynasty that ruled Granada, Spain for many years. It was built in the 13th century.

The Generalife Palace and Gardens

The Generalife Palace and Gardens

The Generalife Palace and Gardens

The Alcazaba, is a fortress and one of the oldest part of the Alhambra, The first reference to the Alcazaba dates from the 9th century.

The Alcazaba

The Alcazaba

The Alcazaba

The Alcazaba

Granada Cathedral

The Cathedral is located in the centre of the Muslim area and dates back to 1523

Granada Cathedral

Granada Cathedral

Granada Cathedral

The Organ in Granada Cathedral

Murcia Christmas Lights

Murcia is the capital of the region of Murcia and is about 30 miles from Cartagena.  On Saturday 2^nd December they had the turning of the Christmas lights.  So we decided to go along.  We took the bus which left from Cartagena bus station and it took 45minutes there dropping off at Murcia bus station and an hour back as it went a longer route round.

The Christmas tree was 40 metres tall and has 60,000 LED lights on it.  There was live music from Ruth Lorenzo, who came 5^th in the 2008 UK X Factor and a group called Siempra Asi.  There was quite a build up with a light show and music before the lights on the tree came on and then there was fireworks and snow (thankfully not the real stuff)!  It was spectacular and never seen anything like it.  It was on a grand scale but it brought thousands out to watch it.  The streets in the main area had lights too.

Waiting for the Christmas lights to be turned on at Murcia

Waiting for the lights in Murcia

Light show in Murcia

The Christmas tree at Murcia

Fireworks at Murcia

The evenings are getting cold now so it felt Christmassy so much so that I had to put on my winter coat and my gloves!

7th December 2017

Now when I say winter, well, we are surprised at how nice the weather still is, so doesn’t really seem like winter.  We have now settled in to life in Cartagena.  Ian has been busy “putting the boat away” which means all the sails are down and put away or covered up, mainsail cover put away, sheets and halyards replaced by string.  Rubber tube on the dingy washed and put away.  Anything affected by the sun is out of the way because the UV is not good.  Lockers have been emptied and cleaned.  Ropes have all been through the washing machine.  All the spinnakers and the storm jib have been aired.  Ian has been in the water putting bags around the props to keep the barnacles off.  It’s starting to get a bit cooler in the evening down to 10 degrees overnight but still quite warm during the day between 18 and 20.  It’s a bit chilly first thing and late afternoon but last week we put the cockpit tent down which actually made it too hot (I know your heart bleeds for me).  It has become our “conservatory”.  It’s lovely to be able to be outside at this time of year.

Ian covering the props – Nov 17

Ian in Cartagena NOV 17

Ian covering the props Cartagena 2017

Strangebeing under the boat Nov 17

Ian off to get diesel Nov 2017

I’ve been trying to make the boat a bit more homely so have put up some photos from our travels, got some flowers (artificial obviously), a lamp and a curtain for the patio doors just for the winter to keep the warmth in and people nosing out.

Singing Sailors

Every Sunday a BBQ is held in the marina next to us.  You take your own food and drink and pay a few cents towards the cost of the coals for the BBQ.  We have a quite a few musicians amongst us.  Firstly we had two of the young children, Jessica and Olivia who played a tune on the ukulele.  A lady had set up her keyboard and amplifiers and sung a few songs.  Then there were people playing guitars, ukuleles, a concertina and a harmonica.  It was a really enjoyable afternoon.  This has now become a regular part of the Sunday BBQ.

Cartagena

There seems to be something going on most weekends in Cartagena.  There is a jazz festival on for the month of November with a free session in the main town on Saturday’s.  We’ve had an Artesian Market with stalls selling various crafts and food and drinks stuffs, all dressed in traditional costumes.  There were people dressed as soldiers enacting the capture of prisoners and also sword fighting.  But of course being Spain it does all close down for three hours in the middle of it all for siesta.  We had the Cartagena marathon the other Sunday which was very busy.

Ian, Lee, Lo and Mel, Cartagena 21.11.17.

We’ve also had a visit from Brian and Ann along with Ann’s cousin Steve and wife Sue as they are not far up the coast from us.  Lee and Mel Mac also dropped by and we spent a lovely day with them.

We are right by the cruise ship terminal.  The first few weeks has seen a lot of cruise ships coming and going but these have more or less stopped now, with just a few arriving in December and then nothing until March next year, so a lot quieter.  We had a submarine come into the harbour last week, something you don’t see very often.

Exercise

We’ve, yes that is Ian too, (amazingly) taken up yoga.  We have a French lady who takes a class twice a week up on the boardwalk outside the other marina. So far it has been quite warm to be outside but let’s see as time moves on how this will be.

Val and Linda from the other marina were going for walk and invited me along so I joined them for what I thought would be a leisurely stroll.  Sun was out, nice and warm, ideal for a walk.  Well we took the longer route and thought we would go up to Atalaya Castle.  We walked along a dirt track path and found ourselves on the hilltop across from the castle, on we went then at another hilltop.  Finally we took the path to the castle however, the path soon disappeared and we were clambering up rocks which in places was quite steep, hoping that when we got to the top there would be a pathway down.  Thankfully there was and we finally made it to the castle.  The views were amazing.  The path down from here was concreted which we were relieved about.  We walked over 15,000 steps and 61 floors, no wonder my calves hurt so much for the next few days!

We have settled very nicely into life here in Cartagena.

27th November 2017

It’s Thursday 19^th October 2017 and we are now looking to make our way to Cartagena where Cuffysark will reside for the winter.  We left Fuengirola at 9.15am.  It was calm flat seas but overcast with slight winds of just 6 knots from the North.  Three hours in and the wind has picked up to 18-20 knots, north westerly so were picking up good speeds, 8.5 knots.  We covered 50 odd miles in 7 and a half hours arriving in Motril.  We stayed just the one night and set off the following morning at 9.30am.  The landscape along this coast is quite dramatic with it not being very far from the Sierra Nevada.

Ian had put the fishing rod out the back of the boat and actually managed to catch something.  We believe it was a King Mackerel.  I like fish but fish that has been caught by someone else and I couldn’t bring myself to gut it etc so back it went.

We had decided before we left Motril that we would stop at Almeriamar and then move on.  However, the weather wasn’t looking favourable after the next day so we decided to get a move on and get to Cartagena sooner rather than later.  We anchored up between two commercial ports at Carboneras at 11.30pm after 14 hours and 85 miles.  Had we realised we were going to head so far we would have left earlier!  Below are pictures of Cabo de Gata which we passed at sunset.

Our final sail of the season

We didn’t hang about,  we set the alarm and left at just after 6am and it was still dark.  There was no wind so we had to motor most of the way but it was another lovely, sunny and hot day!  The entrance to Cartagena is not that easy to see it looks like you are just heading for the mountains and it takes a while before the entrance opens up.  Once inside the entrance we found our way round to the Real Club de Regatas de Cartagena and found a space on the quayside and moored up.  The views inside are pretty good.  This is where Cuffysark will be until April  2018.

We were both very tired but thought we ought to have a bit of a walk.  We had been walking around the main town which was very busy for about half an hour but decided we were too tired, so we turned back and came across a procession with a very big statue of the Virgin Mary being carried.

Stern of two cruise ships taken from the RCRC Yacht Club

As I mentioned we are moored up on the main quay, the Yacht club to one side and in front of us is the cruise terminal, there are some big ships that come in.  Boats moored up do attract people.  So we do get some people just walking by,  some stop and pose in front of the boat for a photo or a selfie and some stop for a chat, all nationalities.  It’s quite nice to see the world going by, at least so far it is.

Our first full day in Cartagena, Sunday 22^nd October and we discover there is quite a big live aboard community here, mostly in the marina next door, the Yacht Port Cartagena.  It seems that people flit backwards and forwards to home over this time, some popping home for longer than others so there are always people around.  They have a BBQ every Sunday, Wednesday is tapas night which is a crawl to different tapas bars and Friday is happy hour visiting various bars around town.  I believe as time goes on there is other stuff that goes on, on an adhoc basis.  So we went off to the BBQ to meet some of our fellow sailors.  We were surprised to say the least at how many people were there, somewhere in the region of 40 or so.  It’s nice to know there are others doing the same as us.  We are not alone!

We also went along to the Tapas evening.  A lot of the tapas bars offer “Cana and Tapas” for €1.90 which is a small beer and a tapas, so quite reasonable.  We also went along to the Happy Hour on Friday and one of the women organised a meal which some of us went along to after a few drinks.

All in all we’ve had a good start in Cartagena.

2nd November 2017

Vigo to Baiona

We left Riveira for Vigo on Monday 7^th August 2017, a leisurely start at 11.30, with overcast skies and winds of about 13 knots in a north easterly direction.  Winds got up to about 20 knots and we were surfing on the waves with our fastest speed being 13.5knots.  On the way out of the Ria we passed this fishing boat who was swinging his net round in a circle.

Vigo is a big commercial port.  We only stayed here the one night as we needed to visit a chandlers for a few bits and pieces to ensure we complied with Portuguese safety rules.

We left the following afternoon and took the short trip to Baiona.  Baiona is stunning, set in a small bay and very sheltered.  It wasn’t what I’d expected.

Ian had visited here about 30 years ago and as you can imagine the change was dramatic.  There were no marinas back then whereas there are now three and it is much more developed for tourists. There was only the fuel jetty, the castle and the yacht club back then.

We visited the replica of the “Pinta” ship which was commanded by Martin Alonso Pinzon.  Baiona is significant as it was the first port in Europe to know about the discovery of America when the Pinta arrived there on 1^st March 1493.  The ship was surprisingly small.

The boat was steered from down below where the tiller was so it wasn’t possible to see where you were going from there.

The ship brought back various items from America including three natives, one of whom died on the trip.  The main product they brought back was cotton however they also brought various plants which at that time weren’t known to Europe including corn, sweet potato and tobacco.  There was also some wildlife.  Sailors generally slept on the deck of the ship however, they discovered the hammock in America and so had a much more comfortable sleep on their return.

We had a spot of lunch “menu del dia” in the old town and then went for a walk around the fort, “Fortaleza o Monte Boi ou Monte Real S X XVII”.

We visited the local yacht club “the Monte Real Club de Yates de Baiona” which overlooks the bay and so we had to stop for some refreshment.  King Juan Carlos II of Spain sailed from here.  The club has also made several challenges to the Americas Cup and had a number of entrants to the Whitbread Round the World Races.

We left Baiona on Thursday 10^th August for Portugal just as the sun was rising.  As the morning went on their were lovely blue skies, northerly winds of 12-14 knots, perfect conditions, idyllic, for sailing yes but land is definitely warmer than on the sea. I had my jacket on and a towel wrapped around my legs for most of the day as it was rather chilly.  As some of you know our cockpit is covered with a bimini so no getting into the sun and out of the wind there but I have been told on numerous occasions that I’m going to be grateful for that bimini when it’s hot! There was me thinking by the time we got to Portugal I’d be stretched out on the front of the boat.  It’s forecast 26 tomorrow and we’ll be ashore.  Hurrah!

Sunrise at Baiona Aug 2017

Sunrise at Baiona

Modern technology

Oh how grateful we are for technology.  We have discovered the app Google Translate, thanks to Julia.  So wherever we go now we stand with a phone hovering over menus, signs and such like and the phone shows you the translation through the camera.  Amazing!

17^th August 2017

27^th July to 6^th August 2017

We arrived in A Coruna in the pouring rain on Thursday 27^th July.  The following day we took the train to Santiago de Compostela which was just 25 minutes.  Here is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela which is one of Spain’s biggest attractions.  It was built over the tomb of the Apostle Saint James and is the last stop for the Camino de Santiago (the way of St James) which is the route for Pilgrims.  We arrived just after mass was being held.  We queued to get in and they stopped letting people in two people in front of us.  We eventually entered half an hour later and there was another service being held.  Pilgrims had carried a statue of the Virgin Mary from their local church and the priest made a blessing.  It was quite a sight to see.

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On Saturday we had a long bike ride around the coastal road.  We went along to Torres de Hercules which stands 180 feet high and is the oldest Roman lighthouse still in operation.  It was originally built in the 2^nd century AD but it was rebuilt in the 1800’s.  We viewed it from the outside rather than take a walk to the top.

From here we moved on to the Spanish Rias, first to Caraminas where we anchored for the night.  The rias are very picturesque and even more so if the sun is shining.

We had another visit from dolphins just before we passed Cape Finnestere.  There was a family of them.  It doesn’t matter how many times they come by the boat you can’t help but get excited.  They are such lovely creatures.   We arrived at Muros which is in one of the Spanish Rias where we spent a couple of nights again on anchor.

Riveira – Wednesday 3^rd to 6^th August

We left Muros and it was foggy again, visbility was about 300 yards.  We headed to Riveira in the Ria de Arousa using the Paso del Carreiro which is quite narrow.  There was still fog but it was gradually lifting.

Another 5 miles to Riveira and the fog had lifted and it was a lovely sunny afternoon.  However by about 6.30 the fog started to roll in again and by 10 o’clock you couldn’t see anything again.

Most of the places we had been to has a fishing industry.  Riveira is on a different scale to what we had seen before.  There were lots of warehouses and artic lorries rolling in and out with their loads.  This was going on at all hours.

Now they do like a celebration in Spain and we had arrived in Riveira when there was one to be held at the weekend “Festas do Veran”.  This is dedicated to people of the sea.  There was a very large funfair, stages at both ends of the main street with music being played.  Once the music started which at one stage wasn’t until midnight people started appearing and they danced.  This was mainly the older generation.  Nothing begins here until the earliest 10pm.

On Sunday 6^th August there was a procession we didn’t know exactly what it would entail but had been told it was at about 5/5.30.  Me, Ian and John (of Bonaire) walked from the marina up along the warehouses.  There were people dressed in Galcian clothes practising the bag pipes.  Further along by the fishmarket there were people hanging about, again it was mostly the older generation who were in their Sunday best, so we thought this looks like where it will be.  We waited for half an hour or more then, some doors opened and everyone swarmed to them and in they went.  Curious, we had a look.  The fishmarket had been transformed into that of the inside of a church with lots of chairs and the statue of the Virgin Mary at the front.  We decided that we would stay for mass.  After 45 minutes it was Holy Communion.  We departed at this stage and waited outside.

The procession entailed the Statue of the Virgin Mary being carried out by six guys who took her to a waiting fishing boat where she would be taken out to sea along with the priests and various dignatories who made a blessing.  This was the same ceremony we had seen at Castro Urdiales however this time we got to see the whole thing.  Accompanying her was a brass band and the people playing bagpipes.  It was quite a sight.

Once this had all finished we had a wander round the town and in the main street outside the church came across some youngsters doing some street dancing.  It transpired that they were a religious group attempting to get their message across through dance.We know this as they tried to convert us!

During the rest of the evening there was another two stages playing music which went on until the early hours.  On Sunday night the finale, there were fireworks, which didn’t start until Midnight which we watched from the boat.  We were glad we stayed for the weekend to be part of it.  We had a really enjoyable time in Riveira.

8^th August 2017

Well you might be sitting in Old Blighty thinking it’s all sun, sea and sand.  Northern Spain is mountainous and very green.  Now there’s a very good reason for that, it rains a lot.  The weather along this coast is reminiscent of the SW coast of England, so a bit of everything and very changeable.  It can be lovely sunshine one minute then overcast and raining the next.

We’d had a lovely hot sunny day in Santander.  We set the alarm for 8 o’clock.  I got up to make some tea before our departure and all I could see, well actually I couldn’t see, it was thick fog!  The northern coast of Spain is renowned for fog.

We waited an hour when it started to lift and off we went.  We headed for Llanes which is about 40 miles along the coast.  It was grey, miserable and the wind was on the nose which meant we were bashing into waves again!  Just as we arrived at Llanes the wind dropped a bit and the seas became very flat.  There was still quite a mist over the land.

The marina had space for just three visiting boats, luckily we were the third boat into the marina.  We rafted alongside Bonaire, whose skipper John, is sailing single handed.

Llanes is a lovely village situated beneath the Picos de Europa mountain range. We took a ride a few miles out of town and then came back in for some lunch.  Spain is definitely better value than France.  Lots of restaurants offering 3 courses for €12 and food in the supermarket is in line with UK.

Gijon

We spent a couple of days in Llanes and we left on Thursday 20^th July for Gijon.  It was another overcast day, with the clouds hanging low on the mountains.  It was just under 50 miles to Gijon and we arrived at Marina Yates which of the two marinas here was the one further out of town, but we have the bikes and the cycle paths here are great.  Plus this marina is half the price of the other one and we can always do with the exercise.

We ventured into the main town and came across a rather unusual statue made of bottles.  We were walking along the bay and we heard a loud roar and it was an F16 flying overhead.  We then went up to the top of the hill where we found quite a few people with cameras set up.  There was obviously something going on.  We could then hear the sound of a helicopter which landed just along from us, dropped of five people and then off it went again.

Two of the guys who were in Swiss uniforms walked past us.  So Ian decided to have a chat with them.  They were part of the Swiss Airforce and they were going to be practicing in 20 minutes time for the Airshow that was being held on the Sunday.  The helicopter arrived again and picked up two guys and off it went.  The helicopter and nine other planes then put on a display.  This was followed by one lone plane, that we did wonder if was local and trying to get in on the act.

The following day we met up with Karen and Ronnie, fellow Mahe owners.  We had decided to meet for lunch but we were a bit late so a drink and dinner it was.

Cudillero – Sunday 23rd July 2017

Our next port of call was to Cudillero which had been recommended by Jesus from Marina Yates.  He lived at the top of the hill and said it was a traditional Spanish village.  Ian had looked at this harbour and thought the entrance looked tricky and so had dismissed it however, Jesus was insistent that it was fine so off we went.  It certainly was a beautiful place with the houses hanging on the side of the hill.  However, the entrance was quite narrow and there was quite a swell with rocks either side.  We had to go through the rush of the water, Ian thought it was great, I wasn’t so keen!  Once in though it was lovely.

Moving swiftly on!

The next couple of days we moved on pretty quickly as the weather wasn’t so good, grey and overcast, not something you would expect for Northern Spain.  So from Cudillero we went to Ribedao, where we anchored up for the night.  We did call into Luarca where there were five mooring buoys.  You had to tie up to one of the buoys on the stern and the bow to a ring along the wall.  However, one boat had used two mooring buoys, fore and aft (front and back) and one other boat had used one mooring buoy and the only ring, so the other two buoys had nothing to tie on at the wall so we decided to give that a miss and carried on to Ribedao.  From Ribedao to Carino, which was a lovely sunny day.  John on Bonaire joined us and we had a meal together aboard Cuffysark sitting in the sunshine.

We then moved from Carino to Ares.  On the way we finally got to see some dolphins and they were swimming underneath the boat and jumping out the water.

We spent one night at Ares, we had planned two but on getting up on Thursday 27^th July, it was just like home can be, raining, grey and foggy, so we left for La Coruna just 6/7 miles away.  Hoping to find some sun soon!

27^th July 2017

We left St Jean de Luz on 15^th July for San Sebastian on the northern coast of Spain, which was a short hop.  It is a very mountainous landscape along this coast.

As we turned into the bay there were lots of other boats, people on paddle boards, kayaks, etc and the beaches were packed.  A popular beach resort.  Plus the sun was shining brightly, which is not always the case on this coastline.  We anchored and then took the dinghy ashore.  There weren’t many places to leave the dinghy so we took our chances and headed for the marina.  There was a fuel berth and the guy ashore indicated we could tie up there.

San Sebastian was buzzing and very busy.  We had a walk through to the old town which had very narrow streets with high buildings.  There were bars, restaurants and shops all along.  At one end was the Basilica of Santa Maria and at the other the Buen Pastor Cathedral.

Basillica of Santa Maria

San Sebastian

Town Hall

Buen Pastor Cathedral

Buen Pastor Cathedral

Buen Pastor Cathedral

We took a walk to the top of Mont Urgull which is quite a long uphill (obviously) walk but we did it!  We discovered once we neared the top that you could take a bus.  The hill is topped by a stronghold (headquarters, barracks and warehouses), the 12^th century Castillo de la Moto was key in defending the city.  In 1950 a chapel and a 12 metre-high sculpture, the Sacred Heart statue (Cristo de la Mota) was added.

There is also an English Cemetery which had a handful of graves.  One read:

“Sacred to the memory of Whilam I M Tuppe, Colonel of the 6 Scotch Bal who at the Head of Reg at the taking of Ayete on the 5 May 1836 fell mortally wounded at 32 years of age”.

Ian got chatting to a Scottish lady (who was married to a Spaniard) in St Jean De Luz and she recommended that we try the tapas in San Sebastian.  In fact it is “pintxo” here which is similar to tapas but is generally served on a slice of bread and has a cocktail stick through the pieces.   This is traditional Basque cuisine.  There were lots of pintxo places and we settled on “Baztan Pintxos and Bar” in the old town.  The pintxo is all laid out on the counter, replenishment is ongoing and not always with the same things.  It’s a bit like a buffet where you fill your plate, hand it over and the staff then heat up whatever should be hot and then you pay for it.  Very nice.  Slightly different to what we know to be tapas.

The bay was quite sheltered here although a bit rolly at high tide.  We anchored just behind Isla de Santa Clara.

Our next stop was originally going to be Bilbao, however, the nearer we got we decided that we would rather to go to one of the smaller ports a little further on so we headed for Castro Urdiales which was a small harbour.  This was a pleasant sail, with light winds and blue skies, which was nice as it was 50 miles which took us just over nine hours.

Virgen del Carmen – protector of all seamen, fishermen

We anchored up and as we finished we could hear singing.  We wondered if we were near to a church.  There were a lot of people standing looking over the quay wall and when we looked closer (with the binoculars) there were quite a few boats decorated with bunting.  We could then hear a priest this was followed by the boats all starting to move together towards the outer part of bay.  It looked like there were three priests on the front of one highly decorated boat and they were speaking and then singing was being played.

We discovered that this festival was the Día de la Virgen del Carmen, which involves the tradition of a parade through the town, making its way to the sea front. Usually, a flower-strewn effigy of the Virgin is carried through the streets by a group of the local fishermen. When they reach the sea, they are met by a flotilla of decorated boats. After prayers are made for all those at sea, the statue is then customarily taken on a boat, around the local harbour.  The Virgin, according to the legend, is responsible for keeping the waters around the shore clean and safe; many devotees used to refuse to swim until after July 16th!  It was great to witness this festival, if only in part.

We spent the night here before heading off the following morning (Monday 17^th July 2017) to Santander.  This was just under 25 miles.  We anchored up in the bay here, which is surprisingly really nice, not what you’d expect from a big commercial port.  Here we came across a fellow Mahe and Cruising Association member from Brighton, Karen and Ronnie on CopyCat, who came aboard and we chatted for a couple of hours over a few drinks.

23^rd July 2017