The next place we visited was Bosa. We anchored just off the breakwater opposite Porto de Bosa. The town of Bosa is a 15 minute dinghy ride along the River Temo. There is a bay on the other side of where we were but you can’t anchor overnight so we settled down or so we thought. Along came the Coastguard and moved us and five other boats round to the bay, and we managed to understand that we could come back at 9pm, puzzled as to what was going on but we did as we were told, yes even Ian. From 8.30pm onwards small motor boats started arriving, “heads up” something is going on. All was revealed when we heard the first loud bang, fireworks. Very nice of them to welcome us! We stayed the night here and moved back to our original anchorage the next morning.
Bosa is a very picturesque town, with brightly coloured houses up the hillside and Serravalle Castle at the top. It was a very steep walk up to the top (and hot) but the views of the river were stunning.
A Carnival is held in February and they revive it in August for the tourists, so we thought we’d stay and watch this. We found ourselves a front row seat in a restaurant. However, it isn’t the same as the February one, it wasn’t a parade just people dressed up wandering around, but always interesting to people watch.
We spent a week here and had a few more thunderstorms and plenty of rain. At least the boat was still nice and clean. It could be lovely and within minutes all hell broke loose.
The anchorage at Tharros was part of a national park and had mooring buoys laid which you needed a permit for which is available online. The only issue was the form to download was only available in Italian or French, how did we manage without Google Translate. So for €32 we were able to use the mooring buoys for no additional charge. This area had Posidonia sea grass and you must not anchor on it as it is protected. You can be fined if you do. The police regularly cruise this area, it was a first to see them on jet skis. We stayed here for longer than we had wanted to but more on that later………………..
We were anchored opposite the Ruins at Tharros which is believed were probably founded by the Phoenicians at the end of the 8th century BC, then by the Punics followed by the Romans.
There was a very small village just a short dinghy ride away, San Giovanni, where there was a beach and little else but two restaurants and of course, a church.
We had more thunderstorms here, one particularly bad one with 35 knots of wind, torrential rain, thunder and lightning on our second day but we were on a mooring buoy and it held fast. When we arrived Ian had dived down onto the mooring buoy to see if it was ok. The lines looked ok but couldn’t get far enough down to check the concrete block.
After being here we realised there was a bus from San Giovanni into Oristano about 35 minutes away. So off we went to have a mooch around on Saturday morning. The weather became a bit overcast and we had some rain but nothing major. We were just waiting for a museum to open and sheltering from the rain when Ian received a phone call, an Italian number. It was someone from the Marine park who we’d got the permit from to say “there is a problem with your boat”. Shocked was an understatement. We were asked to get ourselves to his office in the next town, then a few minutes later he told us to stay where we were and he would come and collect us. Thankfully he spoke fairly good English. We got back to the boat where the coast guard was waiting for us. The boat was now anchored in the seagrass. We never quite to the bottom of exactly what had happened, but someone had jumped on the boat and stopped it drifting and dropped the anchor. It transpired that the ubolt cast to the concrete block had rusted away. It was a scary situation and very unlucky for us. Thankfully there was no damage to the boat. We had to send a statement to the Coastguard about our movements on the day and were told we also had to report to the Coastguard in Cabras on Monday morning. Monday morning we checked that we had the correct address and was told no need to now go to the Coast guard, so we could have left Tharros the day before. Lovely place but we were glad to move on.
Carloforte, Isola di San Pietro
In Carloforte there is a town quay where we were able to moor up alongside which was a relief after the incident in Tharros. It is also nice to be able to step onto dry land straight from the boat once in a while.
We had to report into the Coastguard to get authorisation to stay there and we had to buy “una marco di bolo” which is a stamp for tax which was €16 from a local newsagent. We liked it so much and there were some strong winds coming through so we decided to stay a few more days so we had to go through the whole process of getting more authorisation but happy to do that for a total of €32 for a week’s berth. Marinas are ridiculously expensive at this time of year plus us being a Catamaran makes it even more so, which means we don’t use them as a general rule at this time of year. Carloforte is the only town on the Island and has ferries from the other island and the mainland of Sardinia, which brings in lots of day trippers. Again we had more storms here, with some terrific thunder and lightning. So much for no rain in August. Carloforte is a pretty town with narrow cobbled streets. While we were here there was a beer festival with live music one evening and a fashion show the following night. It still surprises me how often we’ve found events going on while we’ve been somewhere.