There are two routes going south from Portsmouth, the Inter Coastal Waterway (ICW) and the Dismal Swamp Canal. We had already gone up the ICW so we decided to go the Dismal Swamp Canal route. It is very busy in October as “the Snowbirds” are all heading south for the warmer weather. Plus one of the bridges was having some issues and it wasn’t being opened so regularly so the Dismal Swamp Canal it was for us.


Now the name doesn’t make it sound very appealing, but the Dismal Swamp Canal in October with the trees shedding their leaves is stunning. It is the oldest continuously operating artificial waterway in the United States, connecting the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia with the Albemarle Sound in North Carolina. Work on the canal was started in 1793 and was dug completely by hand; most of the labour was done by slaves rented from nearby landowners. It took approximately 12 years of construction to complete the 22-mile long waterway, which opened in 1805


The canal is not very deep, just six foot so we went at a slower place as in some places it can be a little shallower. Luckily we were following two other boats so if it was shallower they found it first and were able to direct us around it.
At the end of the canal is Elizabeth City. The city was once a major seaport where four-masted sailing ships carried goods to and from the new world (North America, South America, Central America and the Caribbean). The city is very welcoming to boaters offering free docks.

We visited the Museum of the Albemarle which gives the history and culture of the 16-county Albemarle region of north eastern North Carolina.



The Wright Brothers used Elizabeth City as a supply base and transit between 1900 and 1903 as they travelled to the Outer Banks. The city provided crucial logistics, allowing the brothers to ship materials and travel by boat to Kitty Hawk/Kill Devil Hills for their historic glider tests and first powered flight.


There are some big barges along the ICW.

This could be Ian waiting to catch a fish!

Whilst we were in Turkey we met a guy, Bill, who was from Essex, but had lived in the USA for many years. We were passing by where he lived in the US, so managed to meet up with him. He introduced us to the biggest tortoise we’d ever seen.


We meandered along the coast making our way to St Mary’s in Georgia for thanksgiving. The Town puts on a Thanksgiving Dinner for boaters. They provide the venue, meat and everyone brings along a dish to share. There must have been about 60 people who attended. We also went along to the Submarine Museum where we were given a talk, which I was really looking forward to, NOT. Well to my surprise it was really interesting. I thought it was going to be technical but it wasn’t and the guy giving the talk did a great presentation. The museum is the largest of its kind in the south, and the fifth largest in the USA. More than 99% of all WW II submarine combat war patrol reports are housed here, and files on nearly every submarine the United States has or has had in service as part of the collection



We finally arrived just south of Jacksonville on the St John’s River where we would leave Cuffysark for our trip home to the UK.
For our shake down cruise in 2025 we covered 3,811nautical miles from Port Charlotte, Florida up to St Andrews, Canada and back down the coast again to Doctors Lake, Florida. So after getting to know the boat we are all ready to attempt the Great Loop in 2026 with a pre loop trip to the Bahamas first.
December 2025






































































































































