We headed into Georgian Bay, which we were warned was very rocky. In this part of the world seaplanes are not unusual. We arrived in Parry Sound and we saw there were seaplanes and we discovered that it was possible to take a ride. Much to Ian’s astonishment I agreed to go up in the plane. It was just as well we had headphones or I would have realised how rattly the plane was. It was fabulous experience but I was glad when we touched down on the water again.
We had spent two months in Canada and it was now time to head back into the US. On our return we have to check in on the US Border Patrol app but because we are foreigners we also have to report in person to immigration to get our visas updated. The nearest immigration office was in the opposite direction, 25nm miles north, but we thought we ought to go to ensure we were legal. There are two Sault Ste Marie’s, one on the Canadian side and the other directly opposite in the US state of Michigan.
While we were here we visited the Soo Locks which consists of two canals and four locks which allow vessels to go from the St Marys River which links Lake Superior and Lakes Michigan and Huron. The ships that go through here can be up to 1000ft long. Over 7,000 ships transit the locks each year over a 42 week period. This essential transportation link moves nearly 86 million tons of cargo annually, including 95% of the United States’ iron ore.
Alongside the marina was a Lake Ship, the Valley Camp, also known as a Laker. From 1917 until 1966 the 11,500 ton ship travelled some 3 million miles and carried in excess of 16 million tons of cargo. It was 550 feet, beam of 58 feet, and had a depth of 31 feet. We were pleased we did the detour.
Quite a spectacular sight on the river was the Soo hydropower plant, one of the oldest large generating stations still operating in the United States which opened in 1902.
One of the must places to visit is Mackinac Island which is car free. To get about you either take a horse-drawn carriage or a bike. You would think that being car free would be great however, the main street had a very strong smell of the horses deposits. Mackinac Island is a big tourist destination. We used our bikes to ride around the Island which was 8.2miles. Along the way is Arch Rock which we saw from the bottom and then walked the 207 steps to view the Arch from the top.
On the Island is Fort Mackinac which was founded during the American Revolution and was originally sited in Mackinaw City on the mainland. The British moved the fort to the Island in 1780 as they thought it was too vulnerable to American attack. The Americans took control in 1796. In July 1812, in the War of 1812 the British captured the fort and in a battle in 1814 the Americans attempted but failed to retake the fort however it was returned to the United States after the war. The fort remained active until 1895. During these years Mackinac Island was transformed from a center of the fur trade into a major summer resort.
From Mackinac island we travelled down into Lake Michigan to Charlesvoix home of the Mushroom houses. They also look a bit like Fred Flintstone’s house or Hobbit houses. The builder was Early A Young who built 26 houses and four commercial properties. The houses are made of limestone, fielders and boulders and blend into the landscape
Along the canals, lakes and rivers, various places have public outdoor weekly music nights. So far we had managed to arrive on the wrong day however this time we were there on the right day and we saw Cabaret Boreale who were pretty good and gave a theatrical performance.
Lake Michigan can be susceptible to some quite stormy weather and big seas, so after three nights in Charlesvoix our next stop was Frankfort where we had four nights because of the weather on the Lake. There was a fishing competition being held and some very large salmon was caught. Chatting to some people ashore they kindly gave us a few portions of salmon..
The first weekend in September is Labour Day which is a bank holiday. We booked into the marina at Grand Haven well in advance, 1. Cos we’d got caught out with not booking for a public holiday before and 2. It was Colin’s birthday and unbeknown to him his nephew Ritchie along with his wife Lesley and son, Ollie were coming to visit. We had cocktails as is tradition and a lovely meal out. The weather had been a bit unsettled but the weekend was glorious. On our way into Grand Haven it was like being on the M25. I’ve never seen so many boats coming out together.
During the summer Grand Haven has a Musical Fountain which is a massive, synchronised water, light, and music display located across the river from downtown. We just happened to be moored across from it and saw it from the flybridge of the boat.
We had one final stop before we headed to Chicago, at St Josephs. We met up with other Loopers here. For one of them, St Josephs, was their home port and also had a sailing boat there. He asked if anyone wanted to go sailing the following day. Well, you don’t have to ask that twice when Ian’s about. He hadn’t been sailing since November 2024 so he was absolutely thrilled and the conditions were perfect.
We next headed to Hammond Marine, just outside of Chicago, our last stop on the Great Lakes before we started our journey south down the rivers.
August/September 2026